31 December 2013

1911 corset

It is almost 2014 and with it there will be a lot of 100-year anniversaries of the Great War (1914-1918). With my re-enactmentgroup we will portray the upper class from Huis Doorn and on other events in Belgium I will portray a British nurse. I had absolutely no period appropriate clothing, so I needed to make and fast, because there was an WW1 event coming up. The first thing I needed was a corset. In 1914 they still wore corsets, but it wasn't so much as to create a small waist, but to keep the hips smooth/small. The main focus of corsets after 1910's is the hips. The breast are not supported (only by chemise and corset cover). You can imagine that was someting of a problem for the big busted ladies, so that's when the breast supporters were getting popular.
Back to the corset. I had some lovely sturdy jeans and boning, perfect for a new corset. I made the pattern by using the 1911 corset sew-along from Bridges on the Body as a guide. I was really helpful! The pattern making wasn't a problem, but I didn't make a muslin/toile. You really should not skip that step! It helps you find the problems in the pattern, but sometimes I'm a bit lazy so I skip this step. And as you can see... the corset is a bit small below the breasts. And perhaps a bit too wide on the bottom. With wearing I noticed I needed to place the garters further to the center back, because now it tends to stick out a bit instead of following the round of my bottom. Which can look weird with a skirt on... I think I will put some sturdy hooks and eyes on the front, below the busk. Perhaps that will stop the gaping.
almost finished
pattern in progress
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