20 March 2014

Slacks






A long long time ago, I made some black slacks using the Burdastyle Easy Pattern from autumn/winter 2007. If you're not familiar with Burdastyle easy, it's called easy because the patterns are printed and you only have to cut it out in the right size. And they are not the most complicated models. 
the Burda pattern photo


Pattern drawing. My slacks are without the front opening and the pocketflaps at the back
So, I made these in black, but as usual I didn't make a mock-up. I liked the slacks when they were done, but somehow the tummy part was a bit tight, which pulled up the crotch area. So it gave me a bit of a cameltoe :-|

Years and years the slacks were in the back of my closet, never made it into the garbage bin because I don't want throw something I made away.

And a few weeks ago I wanted to make slacks again. This time with a 40's vibe, because I would like to wear it to re-enactment as well. I bought the fabric at the market, about 2m for 4€. 

 

To achieve a somewhat 1940's look I changed the center-zipper to a side button opening. This was a bit fiddly, because of the pockets but it worked.




Bye,
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10 March 2014

Spring-is-here-skirt




This is my new six gore skirt. It's made with a nice plaid wool and it has a tiny sliver of silver(colour) woven in it. Looks and feels very nice to the touch, but it screams to me: winter fabric. I bought it somewhere in the fall with the intention to make a dress out of it, but somehow I just not got around to it and thought the colours wouldn't suit me. With the nice weather/spring coming up I knew I had to make something out of it soon! Otherwise I wouldn't use it again untill next fall. 


So one evening I decided I wanted a simple skirt and browsed internet for a guide to make a gored skirt. I love the flare of six-gored skirt, so I chose that one. And because I'm too lazy to sew eight gores...



The fabric did make the cutting lay-out a bit difficult. Because the stripes have to match, I had to put the pattern pieces far apart and very carefully had to match the stripes up. This left me with a lot of fabric left-over-bits, but I had enough fabric (3 metres) and it had only cost me € 7,50. So no nightmares of wasting expensive fabric. If you look closely at the skirt you'll notice the stripes not 100% matching, but I don't care. 




I used this guide for making the pattern. It took me about one episode of "Murder, she wrote" to draw the pattern and cutting the fabric (I know, I know, it's a horrible show, but somehow I couldn't get myself to change the channel, because I like Jessica Fletchers clothing. It looked a lot like the skirt I was about to make!).

The sewing was easy, just a lot of seams and seam finishing. The closure is a lapped (metal)zipper and a hook in the waistband. I love metal zippers, they look nice, are sturdy and I won't have to fear for melting-disasters when I iron over it. The skirt is unlined, so if I'm wearing this skirt with panty/leggings I'll have to use a seperate underskirt or underdress.


Conclusion: I love this skirt and the colours give it the right spring vibe! At first glance I thought of it being a winterfabric, but my mind has changed and I like it more as a spring skirt. The pink and yellow are brightening it up and the woolpart makes it suitable for the still chilly days. 

And I'm thinking about making a bustier from the leftover fabric, so I can wear it as a dress, like I first had in mind for this fabric.


Bye,
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09 March 2014

My purple Vogue




My review of the Vintage Vogue 2786 dress. It's a reproduction pattern of a Vogue 1943 pattern. I bought it a couple of years ago, but never got around to make it. Maybe it was because the pattern looked a bit intimidating to me. After those years waiting in my pattern stash it finally got to be made! And it worked!

Pattern Description:
A-line dress, fitted through bust, mid-knee length, has lined bodice with below waist seam, gathered at each side of shaped inset and overlaps to tie at left side. Instructions given to make shoulder pads. Option of snap or zipper closing at side. A: short sleeves. B: long sleeves with seam opening and snaps.

Pattern Sizing:
6, 8 & 10
Somehow I was very positive when I bought this pattern, because I thought I could fit in a size 10. After checking the inches in relation to the sizes I knew I had to size the pattern up to a size 12. I must admit I did this rather crude, I just put 5/8" extra on every side. As we all know... enlarging a pattern just doesn't work that way. So I had some troubles with it, but in the end I overcame it by fitting the dress and taking it in at some places. Especially the skirt pieces.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes. It looked like the picture and how I wanted it to be. I made view B. 





Were the instructions easy to follow?

No, the pleats were a nightmare to do with the instructions. It could be because I usually don't read the instructions and sew it in my own way. But with this dress I really needed to read it to understand how the front bust section worked. I sewed the pleats the wrong way (up, instead of down). After checking the picture and drawing on the envelope I understood my pleats were wrong. So ripped it and started over. The sleeve instructions aren't very clear either, I still don't know if the pleats at the elbow should be on the inside or the outside of the arm... So it's now at the outside, but it just doesn't feel right. Something I might want to rip out and change in the future.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Dislike: The pleats in the sleeve and the way they finished the sleeve-wrist part. In the pattern it is a few inches open at the wrist. The sleeve was wide enough for me to fit my arm through, so I stitched the opening closed. Finished the end by using a biastape and a careful handstitch.
I also didn't like the way of the zipper construction. I changed it to a lapped zipper, much easier to construct. Sunni, from A Fashionable Stitch, made a great tutorial for a lapped zipper.




Fabric Used:
Some synthetic fiber, don't know what it is. It was a pain in the *ss to iron!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
As I said before, changed the sleeves at the wrist and the zipper. O and I almost forgot... I forgot to put the front skirt part on the fold of fabric. So there's a seam in the center front of the skirt. But it's not something you'll notice right away. Changed the size of the diamond shaped centerpiece. I have a small upper body and after fitting it with the normal sized diamond, I knew it wouldn't look right. So took about 5/8"off every side of the diamond.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I really love the dress, but I don't know if I will sew it again, it is a rather complicated bust section. On the other hand, I now know how the pattern works so it will take me less time to sew. I recommend it to experienced sewists.

Conclusion:
A challenging dress to sew, but I really love the result! I've worn it a couple of times and it really feels comfortable! And perhaps...after all... I could have saved me the trouble of enlarging the pattern and should have just used size 10. It would have fit me as well.
  




And a side view to finish the tied ends...That's the part I love about this dress, you can tie it as tight/loose as you want. Especially handy if you're in a restaurant and ate too much sushi...I always have to wear something adjustable when I eat sushi ;-)


Bye,
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